Glock 19 Gen4: Fixing the Ejection Issue...

1/18/2014

So, after getting repeatedly smacked in the face by brass after my outing with the G19, I did me a little bit of Googling to see what the cause of the problem was. After reading the same thing repeatedly, I ordered a whopping $7 in parts, broke out my Glock tool kit, and got busy.

The underlying issues

    Back when the Generation 4 Glocks first came out, I saw some people saying that they were having issues with erratic ejection, and getting brass ejected right into their face. Being a non Glocker at the time, I did not pay much attention to it. Now that I am having the issue, I actually started reading up on it.

    The consensus is the bulk of the problem lies with the "Trigger housing with Ejector" assembly. The alleged problem ejectors, have the part number 336, and this supposedly lead to the brass to face, and erratic ejection issues. I looked at my Glock, and sure as shit, it has the 336 "Trigger housing with Ejector". Supposedly, Glock later changed to the 30274 "Trigger housing with Ejector" assembly in the Generation 4 guns, and that remedied the brass to face issues. After a few minutes of looking, I located the part (Glock part number 30275) which is stamped 30274. I placed the order from Glockmeister and a few days later had the supposed remedy for the princely sum of $7 (plus shipping of course).

    Now, there are reports it could be the extractor as well, but I figured we would go with the likely culprit, since the Ejection seemed to be an issue.

Replacing the Glock "Trigger Housing with ejector"

    If you cannot tell, I am having a pretty good time with the title "Trigger housing assembly with Ejector", and I plan on dropping it as many times as I can.

    Now, before your proceed, I must give a word of caution. Of course, Glock recommends that you only have work performed on your firearm by a Glock Certified Armorer, using the proper approved Glock tools.

    So, that being said, here is what you need to perform this parts swap.

1: Glock part 30275 "Trigger housing with ejector" 4th Gen 9mm

Trigger housing with Ejector 4th Gen. 9mm. I had to say it again....

2: "Glock Certified Armorer credentials"

Looks legit to me, it even has the logo and a smiley face!

3: "Glock armorer tools"

I used a rock from my front yard, and an 8 penny nail from my tool bags. I shit you not.

Step One: Unload and disassemble your pistol

Make sure that your pistol is UNLOADED before you begin. Once your pistol is UNLOADED, and the ammunition source is far far away from it, go ahead and disassemble your pistol. How do you disassemble a Glock you ask? Well, you could RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual), or follow these simple instructions:

Take your UNLOADED pistol, retract the slide back slightly, and pull down on the disassembly tabs with your other hand. Keep the tabs pressed down, let the slide forward, and pull the trigger. It is not rocket surgery here, it is a Glock afterall.

Now, if that was too much for you, then it is more than likely you wear shoes with Velcro straps, and cannot ride a bicycle, let alone operate a motor vehicle.

Step two: Drive pin out of the grip

Using your Glock Certified Armorer 8 penny nail, press it against the "Trigger Housing Pin" (Number 29 in the parts schematic in the owners manual) and tap it with your Glock Certified Armorer Rock to drive the pin out. Once this pin is removed, place it in your Glock Certified Armorer parts bin.

Step Three: Remove "Trigger housing with ejector"

When this comes up, you will notice there is some stuff attached to it. Being the "Trigger housing with Ejector" assembly, it houses......well, the trigger assembly. To be technical, the Connector (Part 24), Trigger Spring (25), and Trigger with trigger bar (26) are all attached to it.

To be honest, you probably should remove the trigger to remove the "Trigger housing with Ejector" properly. But since my Glock Certified Armorer certificate is written in pencil, I just wiggled shit around until it came off, which took a few seconds, and didn't break anything in the process. After that, I left the spring on the trigger bar, and it looked like so.

Step four: Remove connector from "Trigger housing with Ejector"

Trigger housing with Ejector. Note the connector on the Trigger housing with Ejector.

Use the flat head of your Glock Certified Armorer 8 penny nail to lift out your connector, and place it in your Glock Certified Armorer parts bin.

Comparison of "Trigger housing with ejector" variants

So, before we go and start putting things back together, lets take a look at the different "Trigger Housing with Ejector" assemblies to see the differences. In the next photos, the new version (30274) will be on the left, and the old version (336) will be on the right.

30274 left, 336 right

To me, it appears that the 336 ejector strikes the casing much more centerline, which theoretically could cause the casing to come back at the shooter. The 30274 ejector strikes the casing more off to the side, and also has more surface area that comes into contact with the casing. Theoretically, it should work better. Theoretically of course.....

Step five: Place connector into 30274 "Trigger housing with ejector"

I'm not even putting instructions as to how I did this....

Step Six: PLace Trigger housing with Ejector back into frame

The first thing I did was reattach the trigger spring to the "Trigger housing with ejector" assembly, with the ejector facing backwards. I then rotated it forward, and slid the housing slightly into the pistol, and slide the trigger bar into the matching slot of the "Trigger housing with ejector" assembly. Once your done, with a bit of wiggling and finesse (I.E. not breaking shit), the assembly should drop down, and look like so.

This is how it should look with the "Trigger housing with ejector" assembly back in the pistol

And a view of the other side. Note the trigger bar inset in the frame, and the tab nestled nicely in the assembly.

Now, take your Glock Certified Armorer Rock and start the trigger housing pin into the frame. Once it is started, use the flat head of your Glock Certified Armorer 8 penny nail to drive the pin flush with the frame.

Step seven:??????

Step eight: Profit!

    Now, go ahead and place the slide assembly back onto your pistol, and do a function test. If you did not place the trigger bar tab into the "Trigger housing with ejector" assembly, your slide will not go on. Not that I did that my first try or anything.... Once your pistol is reassembled, with an UNLOADED pistol, dry fire it and hold the trigger to the rear. With the trigger held firmly to the rear, cycle the slide and make sure that the trigger resets, and dry fire it again. If it passed this basic bench test, then congratulations, you didn't fuck anything up!

    Now, if your pistol is not working, go back over the instructions, and see what you missed. Glocks are simple creatures.

    Here within the next week I am going to go out and see if I keep taking shots to the face like Sasha Grey. I certainly hope not, but we shall see!

EZ

33 Comments

Justin

5/27/2014 02:31:46 pm

HILARIOUS!!! Trying to figure out the "brass to my wife's face" on her new (born 3/14) G19. It has the correct ejector, so I might be looking @ a $60 Apex extractor. Not a happy camper right now!! Outstanding write-up (although your tools are much more "space age" than mine)!

brian

6/11/2014 02:38:30 am

So did it work bro?

Fla Catman

8/26/2014 01:41:33 am

I have been getting this same "Brass to the face" problem with a Gen 3 G19 in addition to several FTE. I thought it might be the ejector claw, so I cleaned the whole shebang, especially the claw (which did have lots of crud in its claw). Went back to range yesterday and shot up lots of cheap Magtech from Brazil......same problem but only 1 hangup in slide.

Wondering if p/n 30274 to replace #336 in Gen 3 will work.

JD link

3/1/2015 06:58:23 am

JUST the ejector will work. The trigger housing is different (since the Gen4's have essentially a "SF" frame). Just take a pair of pliers, lightly grip the ejector and pull it straight out (meaning if the trigger housing was installed, you would pull the ejector forward, towards the muzzle). If you're scurred, you can duct tape your pliers so it doesn't mar the ejector.

Daniel

12/12/2021 08:04:18 pm

I believe you will have to pull the extractor out of the housing itself, but it can work, I had to do that to my gen 3.

Spaceman Spiff

10/8/2014 07:32:26 pm

Uh, so did it fix the problem?

10/9/2014 03:10:35 am

It sure did work. Pistol runs like a top now!

10/9/2014 08:38:29 pm

Saaaawwweeeeet!

Brent

1/1/2015 04:17:35 am

I don't typically comment on things, but I felt like I owed it to you to say that I thoroughly enjoyed reading this. I read through the whole post and I'm not even having any issues on my glock. Thanks for the entertainment!

Ryan Nelson

2/24/2015 02:32:27 am

Wow, awesome write-up and some great information - not to mention it literally had me laughing out loud. Thanks.

3/1/2015 07:02:02 am

AWESOME write up, your "official" tools look much more manly than the one I got from Glock. Your certificate looks TOTALLY legit too.

Just as a note, you can actually remove the ejector itself out of the trigger housing and just install that rather than replace the entire housing. You still have to PARTIALLY remove the housing meaning you can just pull it up and out and w/o disconnecting the trigger bar, you can take a pair of pliers and gently pull it out of the housing and then push in the 30274 part. I've done about a hundred of these in both Gen4's and (mostly) Gen3's with good results. And yes, I'm a certified Glock Armor (until 2017!)

Rob

6/18/2015 11:30:13 am

Pretty much the best write up I have ever read.Great info and a blast to read,..I face hurt from laughing so much !

Roadblock

7/28/2015 02:09:33 pm

Awesome! This fixed my GLOCK 17 Gen4. I've always gotten a few shells to the face when firing this thing but never thought much of it because I would only fire maybe two magazines at a time at the range? Took a pistol class this past weekend and fired 1,000+ rounds and out of all the rounds fired I would say 25% of them ended up hitting me in the face! I even had 3 times when the spent casings got stuck between my glasses and my cheek, that shit HURT!

I finally decided to try some Google-Fu and found this page. Hit my LGS on the way home tonight and picked up the new version ejector and put 200 rounds threw on their range without a single casing to the face.

Thanks!

HAMMER

8/20/2015 02:14:53 am

I'm considering buying a new G19, and for the reasons you guys are talking about, I am debating purchasing a gen3 instead of a 4. I own several gen3 that have functioned flawlessly through thousands of rounds. Do you guys know if any of the newer gen4's continue to have issues?

silver

8/28/2015 06:18:02 pm

IF this is the FIX, why after 3 years are the gun owners having to do the fix? Why hasn't Glock made the change in the ejector before selling the guns? I mean, WTF? Why should the customer have to fix a brand new gun, if Glock knows the issue and obviously has the part?

delirious

10/20/2015 02:40:25 pm

I bought my glock 19 gen 4 in 2012. It came with the updated assembly and I have never been hit in the face by a round.

5/4/2016 12:11:31 pm

Glock did. All new Glocks come with this part. If you call Glock they will send this part to a Glock certified armorer for you to have installed for free. Unfortunately they won't send you the part directly because they say you have to be certified to install it, seriously. If you buy a new Glock and it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for a couple years it's going to come with this part though. I just bought another new Glock 9 millimeter and it had the new ejector.

pal

11/17/2015 01:14:57 pm

I solved this issue as well, went to the store and bought some parts in the form of an hk vp9 and bam, the glock i used to own no longer ejects brass into my face. easy solution to a common problem.

Erick link

11/17/2015 03:09:46 pm

After shooting all my pistols yesterday I'm about to do the same. The G19 is reliable now, but I shoot my H&K's the best out of everything. Nothing but H&K autos for me.

Paul Klenk

12/7/2015 05:20:32 am

Very clear and concise directions despite the stone and nail. However, I am not being critical, because if the tool is not available, one has to make do with whatever is available.

majotKAP

1/6/2016 10:26:26 pm

You're a lot of shit.

Erick Z

1/7/2016 01:57:20 pm

Thanks?

Glock Armorer

1/14/2016 08:13:07 am

Your disdain for certified Glock armorers is not appreciated by people who properly repair pistols for customers.

1/14/2016 09:49:54 am

Humor, how does it work?

bob

5/4/2016 11:47:24 am

Wish I had read this before I traded off my G21

Brad

5/26/2016 10:38:04 am

Actually, my Gen 4 is relatively new (less than 2 years old), so if Glock installed the improved ejector, why do I still get BTF? And I was assured by my local shop that Glock had fixed all the bugs. Glock = Perfection? Not a chance. Heavy trigger is irksome too. Might have to try one of the HKs getting good reviews. Or the S&W?

Beerman

8/12/2016 10:16:40 pm

Hi Guys, just a reminder. NEVER hit ur Glock with a rock/hammer/anvil/mother in law or whatever.
When removing pins, remove it from left to right. To remove the tough trigger pin put pressure on the pin from the left side and wiggle the slide catch forward and backwards Ashwell as up and down and it wil pop out.
If you hit it with a hammer/rock you will eventually damage your slide catch, have more problem and call Glock "bad" guns....
Oh yes and stickem with the pointy end....

Garrett link

12/28/2016 02:50:14 pm

I've got the 30274 Trigger housing with Ejector and it doesn't throw brass at all and jams almost every round casings stove pipe or don't eject at all?

Starfighter

3/6/2017 10:18:46 am

I have a Gen3 G19 made in 2013, and I take one in the face every once in awhile. Even in my shirt pocket one time. But for the most part, spent casings eject fine. I had my first "limp wrist" (casing caught in breach) after a couple hundred rounds of ammo, but nothing since. I find it to be a very reliable gun. I am a writer; this was big fun to read. Great job.

Marc

8/9/2017 06:40:55 am

I already have 30274 and still get brass to the face. I was thinking of trying the 336 but not sure it will work. I have a spare so I was thinking of trying it.

John Gutowski

3/16/2019 12:15:00 pm

No. Stop. The 336 is often the problem - people have fixed BTF with the 30274. I just ordered the 30275 for my G19Gen3, so I can't give any insights until it arrives, gets installed, and range certified by me.

/k/ommando link

8/27/2017 11:04:31 am

I've got a Gen 2 G17 that hits me squarely between the eyes with brass five or six times out of every single mag. It doesn't matter whether it's Russian steelcase, 147gr subsonic, +P+, NATO spec SMG ammo, or Winchester White Box.

It's been back to Glock twice. The first time it came back with an ejector stamped "336" and the second time it came back with a different ejector that is not marked.

It still hits me in the face with brass.

I'm just about ready to go back to revolvers.

Rick Holtsclaw link

3/13/2020 09:24:07 pm

Wanted to say "thank you" for this article. I have a "blue label" G19 I purchased as my retirement from the PD EDC back in 2011. From the beginning, I've had FTE and sporadic brass ejection issues. All of the research, all of this time and finally, I see your article and the parts numbers...and yes, my G-19 has the offending part #336 installed. All this time I've been told the early g-19 FTE was attributable solely to under powered ammo. My new G-19MOS has the G30275 trigger housing w/ejector. Again, thank you for taking the time to publish this article...it could be life saver in an EDC confrontation.